Method of producing slub yarns



Apr l 1967 TAKAO SHIRANEZAWA ETAL 3,312,052

METHOD OF PRODUCING SLUB YARNS Filed May 4, 1966 I5 Sheets-Sheet 1 April 4, 1967 TAKAO SHIRANEZAWA ETAL. 3,

v METHOD OF PRODUCING SLUB YARNS Filed May 4, 1966 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 April 4, 1967 TAKAO SHIRANEZAWA ETAL 3,312,052

METHOD OF PRODUCING SLUB YARNS Filed May 4, 1966 5 Sheets-Sheet 5 3,312,052 Patented Apr. 4, 1967 3,312,052 METHOD OF PRODUCING SLUB YARNS Takao Shiranezawa, Hirohiho lida, Koch Taira, and

Masayuki Taltahashi, all of Komatsu shi, Japan, assignors to Teijin Limited, Kita-lru, Usaka, Japan, a corporation of Japan Filed May 4, 1966, Ser. No. 547,543 Claims priority, application Japan, May 7, .1965, 40/26,793; Jan. 13, 1966, ll/2,020 4 Claims. (Cl. 57-157) This invention relates to a method of producing from a continuous filament yarn slub yams having the appearances such as of silk shangtung and Dupioni.

A method has been found of forming simply and economically distinct and starblize d slubs in a yarn composed of a plurality of continuous filaments. This is accomplished by cutting a yarn consisting of a plurality of continuous filaments partially at various points spaced apart from one another along the length of said yarn, thereby forming free fiber ends, after which said filaments having free fiber ends are entangled and intercutangled.

The terminology cutting a yarn consisting of a plurality of continuous filaments partially, as used herein, denotes that a part of the continuous filaments which make up the yarn thereof is cut. This cutting is performed at various points along the length of the yarn, spaced apart from one another. It should be understood that in this case one filament which has been cut at one point of cut along the yarn does not necessarily need to be out at a second point of out along the yarn, but that other filaments may be cut at the second point of cut. The partial cutting of the yarn can be carried out by any method as desired. For instance, it can be performed manually, but in the case or large scale operations, the methods of cutting illustrated hereinafter will be advantageous. For facilitating the partial cutting intended, the yarn, if desired, can be spread out in ribbon or band fashion with the individual filaments separated from one another.

The terminology: the filaments of the yarn having free fiber ends formed by the cutting operation are entangled, as used herein, means that (1) a filament having free fiber ends is convoluted or entangled, and (2) a filament having free fiber ends is interentangled with other filaments having free fiber ends and/or the remaining uncut continuous filaments of the yarn. For eltecting the convolution, entanglement and interent atn'glernent of filaments those means which are known per so can be applied. For this purpose, it is advantageous to employ the hereinafter illustrated mechanical shearing and/or rubbing and fluid flow procedures.

According to this invention, the slub density in the product can be adjusted very simply, because the cutting irequency can be very readily controlled. An average of a single slub per about 30100 cm. of the length of the yarn is preferred, but slub density lower or higher than these values can be achieved very easily according to the invention method. Normally, the slub yarn obtained by the invention method is made up of (1) a. thick slub portion consisting of the uncut continuous filaments and the convoluted, entangled and interentan-gled fiber ends of the cut filaments; (2) a thin portion essentially consisting of the uncut continuous filaments; and (3) an intermediate port-ion consisting of the uncut filaments and the remaining stnatight pontions of the cut filaments. The foregoing three portions usually appear in the yarn obtained by this invention in such sequences as (1) (2) (3) (2) (l) (2) (3) (2) (l) but at some points the intermediate portion (3) does not appear at times. The foregoing portions (2) and (3) are not necessarily straight. Depending upon the conditions of the entangling treatment, for example, when a. fluid stream with an overfeed condition (though the overfeed condition is not critical for attaining the objectives of this invention) is employed, portion (2) and (3) of somewhat bulky structure can be obtained. The length of the slub portion obtained by the invention method is usually about l-30 mm, and particularly 5-20 mm. The thickness of the slub will depend on the cutting con ditions but is, in general, fully satisfactory.

FiG. l is a schematic view illustrating one apparatus which is suitably employed in practicing the invention method.

FIGS. 2, 3 and 4 are views illustrating a cutting means which is suitably used for the partial cutting of a spreaded continuous multifilament yarn; FIG. 2 being a plan view as seen looking at the direction of travel of the filaments and FIGS. 3 and 4 being side views. In FIGS. 2 and 3 is shown the instance where the cutter is in a position clear of the filaments, and FIG. 4 shows the instance where the cutter is cutting the filaments.

FIG. 5 is a schematic view illustrating another apparatus suitable for use in practicing the invention method.

FIG. 6 shows an example of a cutter which is suitable for use with the apparatus illustrated in FIG. 5.

FIG. 7 is a view for illustnating the operation of the cutter of FIG. 6.

FIG. 8 illustrates a member which is suitably used for dividing the yarn which is to be partially cut.

FIG. 9 is a view for illustrating the operation of the dividing member of FIG. 8.

F108. 10, ll, 12 and 13 are schematic views of devices which are used for mechanically shearing and/or rubbing the filaments in the yarn having free fiber ends to accomplished the convolution, entanglement and interentanglement thereof.

Referring to FIG. 1, yarn 1 composed of a plurality of continuous filaments is fed by delivery rolls 2 to a bath 4 containing a conductive material 3 where it is imparted to said material, following which it is conducted to an electrode 6, which is connected with a high voltage generating apparatus 5. When the yarn 1, which is composed of at least five ends of continuous filaments, and preferably at least 12 ends, has a twist of at most 12 t./m., it is untwisted to less than the above value before it reaches the electrode 6. Bath 4 is an apparatus for imparting a conductive material, such as water, a surfactant or an electrolyte, which will impart conductivity to the yarn. However, bath 4 is not necessary in those cases where the yarn already possesses a conductivity of sufiicient order. Yarn 1, which is conducted to the electrode 6, is preferably one which has a leakage resistance value ranging between 2 l0 Q/cm./de. and 5 l0 2/cm./de. when measured at 30,000 volts. Elec trode 5 is impressed with a high voltage of 5000100,000 volts, and particularly about 10,000-30,000 volts from the high voltage generating apparatus. Running yarn 1 is spread out into a ribbon of the individual filaments which have been separated from one another at before and after the electrode 6. The method. and apparatus for spreading the filamentary yarn are disclosed in our copending US. application, Ser. No. 404,602, filed Oct. 19, 1966. While the width of the spread at the rolls 7 will depend upon the conductivity as well as the voltage and configuration of the electrode, a width as wide as 30 cm. can be obtained. Hence, the attainment of the desired width atop the rolls 7 can be readily accomplished by those skilled in the. art by controlling these various conditions.

A part of the continuous filaments 1 which have been spread are cut by a cutting means consisting of a backer 8 and a cutter 9.

In FIG. 2, a plan view of the cutting means, backer B backs up the spread yarn 1 which is running in a direction perpendicular to the sheet. Cutter 9 has a plurality of blades 14 of varying width which are separated from one another with varying intervals. Cutter 9 is also equipped with a holder 12 for each of the blades 14, the width of which holder is substantially the same as that of its corresponding blade and the disposition of which holders is in parallel with the blades. When the cutter 9 is moved to its cutting position by means of a magnetic clutch 16 (which is actuated at a predetermined irregular time interval) as shown in FIG. 4, the several blades 14 cut a part of the filaments, and the corresponding holders 12 in conjunction with the backer 8 hold only thefilaments which have been cut. At this time, a spring 13 mounted between the holder 12 and the cutter body functions to facilitate the cutting action of the blade 14 as well as moderate the holding pressure exerted by the tip of the holder 12. The filaments cut by the blades 14, i.e., the filaments having fiber ends, are convoluted (i.e. during the time that the holder 12 is functioning) by means of the holding action of the holder 12, as shown in FIG. 4. The filaments are then passed over the guide rolls 10, following which they are twisted by a ring twister 17. In certain cases, it is an advantage to provide also at the bottom part of the backer 8 blades 15 having widths substantially identical to those of the corresponding blades 14 and to cut the filaments by the co-operative action of the blades 14 and 15.

In FIG. 1 there is illustrated a method of spreading the yarn which utilizes a high electric voltage, a method which can be carried out with great advantage for spreading a continuous multifilament yarn. Besides this, also utiliza ble in the invention. method are the heretoforeknown method of spreading by means of a static charge and that by means of a guide bar.

Further, it is also possible to use a cutter without the holder 12 for accomplishing the partial cutting of the spread filaments. In this case, it is however necessary to effect to a satisfactory degree the entanglement and interentanglement of the filaments having free fiber ends by, for example, one of the suitable methods described below.

FIG. 5 illustrates one mode of practicing the invention method wherein the yarn is partially out without being spread. In FIG. 5, continuous multifilamcnt yarn 21 withdrawn from the package by means of rolls 22 and 23 passes via a guide 24 to be partially cut by a cutting means 30, after which it is fed to a fluid jet device 27 by means of rolls 25 and 26. The yarn is then subjected to a turbulent action of fluid jets in the fluid jet device 27 and thereafter is wound up onto a package 29 via a guide roll 28.

As the cutting means, a needle cutter such as shown in FIG. 6 is recommended. The cutter consists of a metallic needle 32 of triangular cross-section along the length of whose side or sides are notched several cutting edges 33. As shown in FIG. 7, needle 32 is moved reciprocatingly in a direction perpendicular to that of the running yarn 21 while making contact therewith, with the consequence that the needle edges 33 catch parts of the filaments of yarn 21 and effect their cutting.

Instead of the foregoing needle 32 which has a cutting action, a metallic needle as shown in FIGS. 8 and 9 having only a dividing action can also be used in conjunction with a suitable cutter. The needle divider consists of a cylindrical needle 42 which is provided with several holes 43. When the needle 42 is moved in a direction perpendicular to that of the running yarn while making contact therewith, the holes of the needle catch parts of the filaments of the yarn and divide the yarn into a number of filament groups. Of these groups, several are cut by a cutter 44 which is disposed at a suitable location, which cutter may be heated electrically. Besides the cutting techniques here illustrated, the following techniques are also utilizable in this invention for effecting the partial cutting of the yarn; namely, that in which the cutting is accomplished by an electrical spark, knife edge and also that in which the running yarn is contacted intermittently with a ring type blade which is rotated eccentrically.

The fluid jet device 27 is preferably of the type described in US. Patents 2,783,609 and 2,852,906, to A. L. Breen, which is operated by passing a yarn into a turbulent fluid stream whereby the filaments of the yarn having free fiber ends formed by the cutting operation are caused to be entangled and interentangled to become the remarkable slub parts of the intended products. The yarn fed to the fluid jet device 27 does not necessarily require an overfeed for attaining the objectives of the invention method. However, if the yarn is overfed, a thick-and-thin yarn having bulky effects in the thinner portion also can be obtained.

Besides the hereinabove described method of subjecting the yarn to the action of a turbulent fluid stream, the entanglement and interentanglement of the filaments of the yarn having free fiber ends formed by the cutting operation according to the invention can also be carried out by rubbing and/ or shearing the yarn mechanically. Referring to FIG. 10, yarn 51 having free fiber ends is contacted with a shearing means rotating in a direction opposite to that of the running yarn. The shearing means comprises a rotating body 52 and one or more brushing members 53 radially mounted thereto. Brushing members 53 may be made of either metallic materials or plastics. The filaments having free fiber ends of the yarn are convoluted, entangled and interentangled by the shearing action of the brushing member 53. The shearing means can also be rotated in the same direction as that in which the yarn is proceeding but at a peripheral speed differing from the running speed of the yarn.

Another apparatus suitable for use in this invention for accomplishing the entanglement of the filaments in the yarn having free fiber ends is illustrated in FIG. 11. The rubbing and/ or shearing means shown in FIG. 11 comprises a fixed backing member 62 and a movable member 63. Yarn 61 is shear-ed and/or rubbed as it runs while in contact with the upper surface of the bottom of member 62 and the lower surfaces of the bottom of member 63. Member 63 is lifted up at suitable time intervals by means of a magnetic clutch (not shown) to be lifted away from its position of contact with the yarn 61. Member 63 can also be given a rotating movement about a shaft 64, in addition to the foregoing intermittent up-and-down movement. When the yarn 61 has a twist greater than about 20 t./m. the foregoing intermittent up-and-down movement of the member 63 can be omitted. The surfaces of contact of members 62 and 63 with the yarn 61 may be either a felt, elastomeric or metallic sheet.

Still another apparatus suitable for use in this invention for carrying out the entanglement of the filaments in the yarn having free fiber ends is illustrated in FIG. 12. In this embodiment, yarn 71 is brought into contact intermittently with shearing rolls 74 and 75 which, while rotating in a direction desirable to that in which the yarn is proceeding, if desired at the same time are revolved eccentrically at a lower speed in the same direction as that in which the yarn in traveling.

Still another apparatus suitable for use to accomplish the entanglement in this invention is illustrated in FIG. 13. This apparatus comprises a main roll 82 which rotates at the same speed as well as direction as that of the yarn 81 and a plurality of smaller sub-rolls 83 which rotate in a direction opposite to that of the direction of travel of the yarn 81, while contacting said roll 82. Yarn 81 receives a shearing action by means of the sub-rolls 83 and main roll 82 rotating at peripheral speed different from running speed of the yarn. The sub-rolls 83 can each be imparted an axial reciprocating movement besides .5 the foregoing rotating movement for the purpose that yarn 81 receives-a rubbing action.

The invention slub yarn, which has been obtained by carrying out the entanglement of the filaments, as here inbefore described in connection with FIGS. 5, 10, 11, 12 or 13, can, if desired, be unwound. from its package and again be given the entangling treatment such as hereinbefore described. Further, it is also possible to carry out these methods by combining two or more thereof.

The slubs may be further consolidated with the continuous core by treating the yarn using a twister, spinning frame or wrapping jet.

To further illustrate the invention, the following examples are given, it being understood that these are merely intendedto be illustrative and not in limitation of the invention.

Example 1 In the apparatus illustrated in FIG. 1, polyethylene terephthalate (50 denier-24 filaments) nontwisted yarn 1 was imparted an aqueous 2% solution of sodium laurylsulfate at the bath 4 and was spread. at the electrode 6 by passing a high voltage electric current of 20,000 volts. The width of the spread was about 15 cm.

The spread yarn 1 had a number of its filaments cut by the cutting means shown in FIGS. 2 to 4, then was convoluted and entangled and thereafter wound up by the ring twister 17 at 300 t./m. The yarn speed at this time was 30 m./min. A blade 14 and its corresponding holder 12 making up a set, the cutter 9 was provided with four sets of blades and holders, the width used for the tips of the two outer sets being mm. and that of the two inner sets being 3 mm. On the other hand, the closed period of the magnetic clutch 16 (the time during which the filaments were held by means of the backer 8 and the holder 12) was a combination at random of the periods 1.5, 1.0 and 0.5 seconds, and the cutting action took place on an average of 60 times per minute.

The resulting yarn was a nubby slub yarn having slubs of average lengths of about 1 cm. at the rate of one slub at about every 50 cm. along the length of the yarn.

A plain fabric woven using this slub yarn as the filling and polyethylene terephthalate (50 denier-24 filaments) 500 t./m. twisted yarn as the warp yarns was most suitable as a material for blouses and shirts.

Example 2 In the apparatus illustrated in FIG. 5 which was equipped with the cutting means 30 shown in FIG. 6, three ends of polyethylene terephthalate (250 denier-24 filaments) 30 t./m. twisted yarns were used together and fed to the air jet device 27 at a y-arn speed of 90 m./m-in. to obtain a silk shantung like slub yarn having pronounced slubs spaced at the average rate of about one per 50 cm. along the length of the yarn.

The overfeed ratio between the roll 25 and the package 29 was 20%.

The cutting means 32 was notched with three cutting edges 33 along its side at equal intervals of mm. This cutting means was imparted a reciprocating up-and-down movement so ,as to effect the cutting of a part of the running yarn, as shown in FIG. 7, at equal intervals of about 40 cm. The so obtained slub yarn was suitable for use as coat-fabrics.

Example 3 Using together five ends of a 30 t./m. twisted yarn of nylon-6 (70 denier-24 filaments), water was imparted thereto in the bath 4 shown in FIG. 1, after which the yarn was spread at the electrode 6 by passing an electric current of 20,000 volts.

Next, the yarn was partially cut at the position where cutting means (8 and 9) is shown in FIG. 1 with a cutting means substituted therefor comprising an electrical heat cutter which has been so adapted as to cut about one- 6 third of the filaments of the yarn intermittently at 30 cm. intervals.

The cut yarn was then fed to the air jet device 27 shown in FIG. 5 at an overfeed ratio of 26%, followed by winding up while being twisted with a t./m. twist by means of a ring twister.

The gauze woven fabric which was woven using the resulting slub yarn as the filling and cotton yarn (80/2 count) as the warp yarn exhibited extreme elegance when used for curtains, not to mention its use for womens coat-fabrics.

Example 4 A 50 t./m. twisted yarn of polyethylene terephthalate denier-72 filaments) was passed at a speed of 30 m./ min. through the apparatus which was provided with a combination of the dividing and cutting means shown in FIG. 9 and the rubbing means shown in FIG. 11, except that in the former a shearing blade was substituted for the cutter 44.

Needle 42, which was caused to make a reciprocating movement, was provided with three holes and equipped with a cam means whereby the running yarn was cut at intervals of about 30 cm.

On the other hand, the rubbing means comprised a backing member 62 and a movable member 63, which were lined with felt, the movable member being rotated at 200 rpm. while clasping the running yarn between it and the backing member.

The taffeta fabric woven using the so obtained slub yarn as the filling and 300 twisted yarn of polyethylene terephthalate (50 denier-24 filaments) as the warp yarn was a fabric which completely resembled silk shantung.

Example 5 Using a 30 twist yarn of a blend of acetate rayon (75 denier-30 filaments) rand nylon-6 30 denier-12 filaments), it was passed at a speed of 24 m./min.. through an apparatus equipped with a combination of the divide-cut means shown in FIG. 9 and the shearing means shown in FIG. 10.

The shearing means consisted of a body mounted with three blades at IZO-degree angles, and its rotation was at 200 rpm. in a direction opposite to that of the running yarn. The maximum yarn tension at the time the blade end made contact with the yarn was 0.4 gram/ denier.

The resulting slub yarn possessed a pleasing appearance when used for suiting.

Example 6 A ply yarn of viscose rayon (30 denier-l4 filaments) nontwisted yarn and polyethylene terephthalate (50 denier-24 filaments) nontwisted yarn twisted 3O t./m. was passed at a speed of 50 m./min. through a cutting and shearing process in which were combined the needle cutter shown in FIG. 6 and the pair of felt-lined shearing rolls shown in FIG. 12.

The needle cutter was provided in its. yarn contact surface with three cutting edges at intervals of 10 mm, the needle being imparted a reciprocating movement such as to cut the running yarn at the rate of an average of one cut for every 60 cm. interval.

Further, the shearing rolls were revolved at 20 rpm. eccenltrically in the opposite direction as that of the yarn trave The so obtained slub yarn had slub parts which were very randomly distributed along its length and also had nubs and neps. Thus, its fancy effect was pronounced.

Example 7 A 25 t./m. twisted yarn of polyethylene terephthalate (210 denier-24 filaments) was padded "with 1% aqueous solution of polyoxyethylene nonylphenylether (POE) following which it was partially melt cut in its yarn tension state of substantially zero, with a spark formed by an electrode rod of 35,000 volts.

The sparks occurred at the rate on the average of once for every cm. of yarn length.

This spark-cut yarn was then passed at the rate of 60 m./min. through the shearing means shown in FIG. 13. The main roll of the shearing means had a rubber coating and its peripheral speed was equal to the speed of the yarn. The sub-rolls disposed atop the main roll were, on the other hand, lined with a brush cloth, and they were rotated at a speed of 20 rpm. in a direction opposite to that of the advance of the yarn. The diameter of the main and sub-rolls were 20 and 3 cm., respectively.

The so obtained slub yarn had slubs whose size averaged one cm. with the distance therebetween averaging 60 cm. On the other hand, the ratio of the diameters of the parts having slubs and those without averaged 3:1.

Example 8 When the slub yarn obtained by the procedure described in Example 6 was again processed except that the direction of the yarn was changed, a yarn with slubs exhibiting a very pronounced fancy effect was obtained.

We claim:

1. A method of producing slub yarn which comprises partially cutting a yarn consisting of a plurality of continuous filaments at various points along the length of the yarn to cut a number of said filaments composing the yarn to form free fiber ends in said yarn, said points at which the cutting is effected being in spaced relation from each other, said filaments cut being not necessarily the same at said respective various points but being filaments encountered at random from among the filaments composing said yarn, and thereafter entangling and interentangling said filaments of the yarn having free fiber ends.

2. The method according to claim 1 wherein said filaments of the yarn having free fiber ends are entangled and interentangled by being subjected to a mechanical shearing action.

3. The method according to claim'l wherein said filaments of the yarn having free fiber ends are entangled and interentangled by being subjected to the aotion of a turbulent fluid stream.

4. The method according to claim 1 wherein said yarn prior to being cut is spread such that the individual filaments are separated one from another.

References Cited by the Examiner UNITED STATES PATENTS 2,003,400 6/1935 Taylor et al. 572 2,180,172 11/1939 Schmitt et a1 19.35 X 2,219,357 10/1940 Dreyfus et a1 57157 X 2,278,032 3/1942 Youngman 572 X 2,948,103 8/1960 Nai 57-157 3,102,379 9/1963 Eble et a] 57-157 X 3,153,315 10/1964 Arthur et al. 57157 FOREIGN PATENTS 957,307 2/1950 France. 1,046,799 12/ 1963 France.

741,579 11/ 1943 Germany.

403,738 1/1934 Great Britain.

FRANK J. COHEN, Primary Examiner.

D. E. WATKINS, Assistant Examiner. 

1. A METHOD OF PRODUCING SLUB YARN WHICH COMPRISES PARTIALLY CUTTING A YARN CONSISTING OF A PLURALITY OF CONTINUOUS FILAMENTS AT VARIOUS POINTS ALONG THE LENGTH OF THE YARN TO CUT A NUMBER OF SID FILAMENTS COMPOSING THE YARN TO FORM FREE FIBER ENDS IN SAID YARN, SAID POINT AT WHICH THE CUTTING IS EFFECTED BEING IN SPACED RELATION FROM EACH OTHER, SAID FILAMENTS CUT BEING NOT NECESSARILY THE SAME AT SAID RESPECTIVE VARIOUS POINTS BUT BEING FILAMENTS ENCOUNTERED AT RANDOM FROM AMONG THE FILAMENTS 